Sylvie and I took the 9 am bus from Cusco to Puno on Saturday May 16. We left Cusco and drove out through the Sacred Valley following the river south. The road rose high up into the mountains where we saw alpaca grazing. We arrived in Puno in the afternoon and took a motorcycle taxi to our hostal, Hostal Manzano.

Bicycle taxi in Puno

Our original plan to visit Bolivia ended when I discovered that, for Americans, it costs $135 for a visa. For Europeans it costs nothing. All because of politics between the U.S.A. and Bolivia. Bolivia kicked out the American ambassador last year because Evo Morales believed he was supporting the opposition in demonstrations and in elections. So we decided to stay in Peru and visit Puno and the islands located on the Peruvian side of Lake Titicaca.

After settling into our hostal we walked into the main part of town where we found a small plaza and not much more…Cusco has spoiled us. We splurged on a good dinner and walked back to the hostal after stopping at a bakery that had brightly painted cakes in a display case. It is interesting to note that Puno is the highest city in Peru at 12,421 ft and is located on the shore of Lake Titicaca. It is an old mining town which now caters to tourists.

Hostal Manzano in Puno

Brightly colored cakes in a bakery in Puno

The next morning at 7 am a van picked us up outside our hostal. We decided to take a tour of the islands with All Ways Travel, a tour company recommended by SAE (South American Explorers) and Lonely Planet. We transferred from the van to a small enclosed motor boat…like a trawler…and headed out of the harbor towards the Uros islands.

On the Allways boat (photo by Sylvie)

After an hour and a half of motoring in sunny weather on calm seas we pulled up to a very small reed island inhabited by a couple of Uros families. We disembarked and sat in a circle while one of the Uros men showed us how the islands are built and anchored to the lake bottom.

Uros reed floating reed island

Tasting the root end of a reed on the Uros island

The island we visited has been receiving visitors for only 3 months. Most of the Uros people don´t like to have tourists visit and the ones that do have been overrun with tourists. All Ways Travel intent is to work with the local people to help them earn money but at the same time be respectful of their needs and culture.

The island we visited is floating and made of reeds…it is tiny, the reed mats are soft and move slightly when you walk. At the base of the island are large blocks of reed roots and dirt cut from huge reed stands in the lake. These blocks are tied together to form the base of the island and then layers and layers of dried reeds are put on top. In some areas they add more reeds and build small reed houses. These houses are tiny, without windows and have one door opening inward towards the center of the island. The Uros also build reed boats with curving bows and sterns. They used to tie the reeds together with other reeds but now they use plastic cord which makes the boats last longer.

Uros reed boat with girl sitting at the edge of the island.

Reed bundles drying with reed boat tied up to the island in the background.

We took a ride in the reed boat around the island. One of the men who live on the island stood in the back of the boat and moved a large paddle back and forth to move the boat forward. It took some effort with 15 people on board but he made it look easy.

Uro man paddling the reed boat. Isn't he gorgeous?

After we left the reed island we traveled a few hours on the lake to another island, Amantani, where we were met by a group of local women dressed in colorful clothes with long black embroidered veils hanging down from the crowns of their heads.

Amantani women wearing their black veils

Sylvie and I were assigned to Lucy, a young local woman, who we followed up many steps to the village at the top of the island. We left the main dirt path and crossed a small field, went through a wooden gate and through a neighbor´s yard and finally arrived at her small mud house. Her husband was in Puno working for two months at a bakery. Her small son, Daniel, was in the courtyard with his older cousin. Lucy showed us our bedroom with two beds and a window. The bedroom had an iron door with a lock and the window had bars on it. This seemingly idyllic village obviously has had a few breakins.

Sylvie playing ball with Daniel and his cousin at the house where we stayed. Our room is at the top of the stairs.

After we were settled we played with the children in the small courtyard. Sylvie, a volleyball player, played ‘children’s’ volleyball using a very small ball. It was fun, we laughed and the children giggled. We were shown the toilet which was in a small mudbrick room. The room was immaculate. After using the toilet we were told to dip a bucket into a large container of water and pour the water into the toilet to flush it.

Lucy's house

Lucy and I on the island

Lucy and Daniel

Lucy prepared a lunch for us that was cooked over a wood fire in the back of her kitchen. The family lived simply and seemed happy. There was a large field outside the house that had been harvested and some items were drying in the sun. There was also a mother sheep tethered to a stake nearby. Her baby stayed close while the mother munched on grass. There was also a bowl of water within her reach.

Corn drying on the ground in Lucy's courtyard

After our lunch of soup, potatoes, a slice of tomato and tea we left to join the tour group further up the hill. We hiked to the top of a hill called Pachamama. Adjacent to the hill was another hill named Pachapapa (I think, I need to confirm this). Pachamama is a deity revered and worshiped by the indigenous people of the Andes. Pachamama is the earth mother goddess who gives life to the people.

Stone archway over the trail to the top of Pachamama

Alexander our guide on Pachamama

At the top of the hill there was a rock wall that encircled a sacred site that was locked. We sat on rocks at the top of the hill marveling at the beautiful vistas of Lake Titicaca, other islands and snow capped peaks across the water in Bolivia.

Sacred site at the top of Pachamama

On top of Pachamama at sunset

We stayed to watch the sunset and then walked back in the twilight arriving  after dark. After a small meal Lucy dressed us in local traditional clothes and we walked to the local community hall where we danced to a local Peruvian band and watched folk dances. Lucy was an enthusiastic dancer…we couldn’t keep up with her and we told ourselves it was because of the altitude of 13,000 ft.

Sylvie in traditonal clothing

The tour group at the community hall. I look stuffed because I have four jackets on underneath because of the cold.

The next morning we departed Amantani traveling by boat to Taquille Island. We landed at the non-tourist end of the island and walked on a beautiful trail through fields and along the coastline to a white sand beach.

Taquille man with red and white hat indicating that he is single

We saw only locals. The men of Taquille have a unique way of dressing. They wear black pants and white blousy shirts looking almost like Spaniards. They wear a finely woven belt wrapped around their slim waists. On top of their heads they wear knitted hats with pointed tops that hang down ending in a pom pom. The color of the hats indicate the marital status of the man. Red and white means that they are single. An all red hat indicates that they are married.

Taquille children sitting by the side of the path

A view of the island and beyond from the path on Taquille

On Taquille Island with Lake Titicaca in the background

It was paradise at the beach. I took off my shoes and walked in the water. It felt heavenly. It was warm and the group relaxed for a few hours. Alexander, our guide extraordinaire, swam in the very cold water.

The beach at the end of Taquille Island

Afterwards we had a demonstration by three local men of a Taquille folk dance and then we all lunched on a terrific trout dinner at the community center located above the beach.

Taquille men demonstrating a local folk dance.

Trout dinner on Taquille Island. Yum.

We had an incredible trip. We motored back to Puno in the afternoon and arrived around 5 pm. Later that evening we took the night bus to Arequipa.